Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle by motorbike

Getting there: Route 118

Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai is about 190 km on Route 118, three to four hours riding. The road climbs out of the Mae Kachan valley over a ridge of curves (with a famous hot spring stop at Mae Kachan for boiled eggs and a leg stretch), then sweeps down toward Chiang Rai. It is a bigger, faster road than the 1095 to Pai: less technical, more flowing, and shared with trucks, so hold your lane discipline.

Riders wanting a quieter, wilder alternative can return via Route 1155 and 1093 along the Laos border through Phu Chi Fa, adding a day and a sunrise above a sea of clouds to the trip.

The temples of Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai's art scene built three unmissable stops:

• Wat Rong Khun, the White Temple: Ajarn Chalermchai's blinding white fever dream, 13 km south of town, arrive at 8 am opening to beat the buses
• Wat Rong Suea Ten, the Blue Temple: sapphire and gold, in town, magical in late-afternoon light
• Baan Dam, the Black House: artist Thawan Duchanee's dark museum compound of teak, bone and buffalo horn, 10 km north
• The Clock Tower show at 7, 8 and 9 pm while you eat at the night bazaar

The Golden Triangle and Doi Tung

From Chiang Rai ride an hour north to Sop Ruak, the official Golden Triangle viewpoint, where the Ruak river meets the Mekong and three countries share one panorama. The giant golden Buddha, the opium museums and a boat loop on the Mekong fill a relaxed morning. Mae Sai, Thailand's northernmost town, sits 30 minutes west against the Myanmar border for the border-market wander.

The ride not to miss is Route 1149 over Doi Tung: a narrow, perfectly surfaced ridge road climbing to the Doi Tung Royal Villa and gardens, then running along the border fence with Myanmar below your left handlebar. It is one of the great mountain roads of the north. Take it slow, some ramps are genuinely steep, and combine it with the villa's gardens and the Hall of Inspiration.

Suggested three-day plan

• Day 1: Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai on the 118, Mae Kachan hot spring stop, White Temple on the way in, Blue Temple at golden hour, night bazaar dinner
• Day 2: Black House in the morning, then north to Doi Tung via the 1149 ridge road, gardens and royal villa, sleep in Chiang Saen or Sop Ruak by the Mekong
• Day 3: Golden Triangle viewpoint at sunrise, Mae Sai border market, then the long ride home (or the Phu Chi Fa detour for a fourth day)

Bike and practicalities

This is a distance trip: a 155cc scooter is the comfortable minimum, a Forza-class maxi or a small manual bike is ideal. The 118 has fuel everywhere, but fill up before the 1149, the mountain stretch is empty of stations.

Carry your passport (you are riding within sight of two borders and checkpoints are routine), plus licence and IDP as always. Guesthouses in Chiang Rai, Chiang Saen and Sop Ruak run 400 to 900 THB and rarely fill outside December.